Seoul, South Korea

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Changdeok Palace grounds

I'm about three months behind with this, but here is Seoul - our final stop before returning to California. Douglas Adams once wrote, "It's no coincidence that in no known language does the phrase 'as pretty as an airport' appear," but he probably hadn't been through Incheon Airport which happens to hold the #3 spot on the very useful site sleepinginairports.net. They have free showers, free wifi, loads of places to lie down comfortably, lots of places to eat, and extraordinarily elaborate free crafts stations for the kids. Also on offer: a 6-hour transit tour of Seoul with a delicious lunch included.

Our energetic and patriotic tour guide painted a picture of a competitive nation on the move in which children sleep very little in order to study more, employees don't take more than 3 days of vacation a year in order not to burden their coworkers, and everyone is working together to make Korea get to the top of the heap. She proudly explained what distinguished the kids who made it into the very best universities versus just the very good ones - one less hour of sleep; that is, five hours instead of six.

The tour included Guanghuamun Street, Cheonggyecheon stream, Changdeok Palace, Jogyesa Temple, and Insadong, all of which I got to enjoy at a rather nippy 27 degrees Fahrenheit (-3 Celsius).

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More pics here.

Now for Something Really Exotic . . . the Bay Area

While watching the morning meditations of the Langkawi Reiki club in their "I Love Money - millionairemindpower" t-shirts, I thought to myself that after 18 months of travel what would feel really exotic to me would be to stroll into a Chipolte Mexican Grill, order a burrito, and then catch a movie by myself in downtown San Jose. That daydream turned out to be prescient, as a few days later we decided to cut short our Asia travels and head back to the States.

A variety of factors precipitated the decision: the kids have been asking to go back, they are eating poorly while on the road, we are tired of the homeschool routine and have found it hard to provide sufficiently stimulating material, we think the kids are showing signs of needing some different developmental challenges, and I'm getting annoyed with them too often and think my parenting would be better if we weren't constantly on top of each other. I also really miss working with clients face-to-face. It's a bit painful to let go of Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Indonesia, and New Zealand, but I don't think we are done with traveling - we will just have to do shorter bursts of 1-2 months. In any case, the nomadic phase isn't over yet since we have to figure out where we will land. Options include Portland, the Oregon countryside, British Columbia, and the Bay Area. We like the idea of a walkable small town of 5,000-40,000 inhabitants, good schools, mountains and forest nearby, and maybe a university as well. Getting all that as well as the possibility of meeting with clients face-to-face twice a month in the Bay Area seems like a bit of a stretch, however. It'll sort itself out.

As I look at all the details ahead - finding housing, applying for health insurance (this is the most worrisome), buying a car and car insurance, and finding decent schools for the kids, just to name a few - it reminds me how simple the nomadic life is in comparison . . . and how inexpensive. We have managed to visit 35 countries in 18 months on about $3000/month as a family of four, or about $100 per day - numbers I'm not sure we can hit while living the settled life, at least in the Bay Area . . . then there's also the small matter of paying for our own health insurance somehow. So the experiment continues: I don't plan on working more than two days per week and Jill isn't planning on working outside the home at all. We continue to value free time over the income that working more hours can bring. I'm fortunate to have a flexible job that might just make this possible. Oh, and to make it really challenging, the budget needs to allow us to do a month or two of travel every year . . . like I said, the experiment continues. It's gonna be fun.

We're in Bangkok right now at the wonderful Lumpha Tree Hotel. The end of an experience has a disproportionate effect on one's memory of the experience as a whole, so we are taking care to end well and Bangkok has been kind to us.

From a comfortable bed on the 5th floor room of my boutique hotel, I can see my neighbor and his "house" across the canal.

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After 3 days of watching him, I made my way over the canal to "talk" to him. It was cool and he was really friendly, but some chasms can't be crossed.

Earlier he was swimming his way through the disgusting canal water, dragging his fishing net behind him.

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It's a reminder of what an arbitrary and unequal place the world is. Why am I up here and he down there? Why did I get to swim the pristine lakes of Lassen National Park, the frigid Aare in Switzerland, the Black Sea, the Aegean, Lake Ohrid in Macedonia, the Adriatic, the waters of Palau Langkawi, and the Andaman Sea? And why does my neighbor get this sewer of a canal? Feeling clever about pulling off an epic 18-month journey, eh? It's just dumb luck. And it's obscene.

Pornographic Travel

Not all travel is created equal. When we were zipping around Europe, at times it felt a bit like porn: lots to see and gawk at, but no connection and no intimacy. It may not be the worst thing in the world, but it leaves you feeling a bit empty and even a bit dirty. In contrast, the times on our trip we stayed with local couchsurfing.org hosts (parts of Europe) or rented an apartment (Guatemala) felt totally different and energizing.

Speaking of non-connection with locals, we just escaped Ko Phi Phi (fleeing after a single night), an island in the Andaman Sea off of southern Thailand that is supposed to be a gorgeous beach paradise, but has degenerated into a place to which Americans and Europeans travel long distances in order to party with other Americans and Europeans. It was difficult to even find any Thai food, let alone encounter a Thai person. It's also being poorly managed environmentally and seems to be destined to become the most beautifully located trash dump in the world. The two redeeming experiences were a chance meeting with a super cool French/Swiss couple traveling for two years and our dinner at Thank You Restaurant where we had a great connection with the Thai owner (and some unbelievably tasty gaeng panang gai). He too seemed to despair of the direction the island is heading. In contrast to Ko Phi Phi, Langkawi island (Malaysia) is less stunning from the ferry, but you still get to be part of local culture and hang out with Malaysians on the beach. Over the course of ten days there, we shared our hotel with three different Muslim groups on retreat. I'm still scratching my head about one of them: a Muslim Reiki group with t-shirts proclaiming, "I Love Money, www.millionairemindpower.com.my".

Granted, we have seen very little of the country, but the next time I visit Thailand I will be using the anti-guide strategy:

1. Pick up a Lonely Planet guide.
2. Go anywhere not listed in the book.

Bed Bugs . . . and Langkawi Beach Time

Our second night on Langkawi, an island off the western coast (very northern end) of Malaysia, I noticed little spots of blood on the sheets. Searching in the seams of the mattresses and around the headboard, I found the little critters and their translucent eggs - definitely beg bugs. Bed bugs are making a major comeback all over the globe, but fortunately it's easier than I expected to detect them; the average adult measures 4-5 mm and even the eggs are visible to the naked eye. It was already past the kids' bedtime but I called the guest house owner and we negotiated a room in the main office. This is the kind of unpleasantness that gets labelled "adventure" when you are traveling. As it turns out, we should be calling it homeschool because the kids weren't put out at all; they were actually rather excited and now they know what beg bugs look like, how and where to check for them, and how they reproduce ("traumatic insemination" - the male pierces directly into the female abdomen, but since male bed bugs imperfectly identify females mostly by size, males often end up spearing each other's abdomens by mistake - serves them right).
We made other kinds of buddies, too. The kids played three days in a row with a new Malaysian friend, while I hung out with the dad.
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Langkawi is a pretty good budget experience: $3 will get you a dorm bed, $10 will put you up in a decent room, and you can dine on roti canai and a puddle of dahl for 23 U.S. cents, or go for the heartier butter chicken masala for $3. Just another example of how it is still possible to travel on $10 per day. Getting to Malaysia from Europe was $500/person (Air Asia sometimes does it for less than $200 from London), from the U.S. would run about $1000, I would think.
After a week of budget digs and cold showers (not really a problem with the heat and mugginess), we upgraded to this.
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For less than the cost of a US motel, our little "chalet" on the beach isn't going to break the bank either.
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It's a kick to see the kids running around sharing the beach with fully veiled Muslim ladies . . . this one is about to go jet-skiing.
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We were only going to be here five days, but no one seems eager to leave . . . looks like we are staying on for a while longer.

Chinatown - Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Oh yeah! It's back to the backpacker trail: thin mattresses, missing bed slats, threadbare sheets, and questionable accommodations in good locations. We arrived in KL and spent two nights in Chinatown at the Grocer's Inn ($20 for the four of us - quite a change from Europe). Lots of new sights, smells, and short torrential downpours. We ate excellent hawker food in Chinatown from three different stalls for a grand total of $2 a person (chicken satay sticks, eggplant, greens, mushrooms, and some kind of unbelievably tasty, thick coconut pancake).

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Just taking it all in . . . 

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Our mattresses may be thin, but these guys across the street from our hostel have even thinner ones.

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Conor had been wanting to see the Petronas Twin Towers since he was four. Check.

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More pics here.

Experiment. Iterate. Move on . . . to Malaysia

While a lot of factors are contributing to our final decision, I knew it was time to bring down the curtain on the camper van experiment when Conor said, "I feel like I'm living half a life." When a 9-year-old can articulate something like that, you have to pay attention. It was a dense statement with a number of layers, but the upshot is that after trying a number of variations on camper van travel, I just sold the beast today on the French equivalent of Craigslist. Fortunately, I recovered most of our investment, making our time in Europe inexpensive on the housing side.
The decision to call it quits came in Spain. The Basque country was refreshingly green and San Sebastian seems like a great town.
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We had three great days in Segovia which has a Roman aqueduct and a fairy-tale castle.
We then zipped through Avila, Toledo, Cuenca, and Teruel, then back to the south of France. More pics.

After the decision to sell the RV, we all agreed that what was called for was some time in France stuffing ourselves with pastries. Beyond that, we needed some time to just sit somewhere stable for a while and some settled play time with the kids. I've been playing a couple hours of hide-and-seek every afternoon with the boys at the fantastic quarry here in Junas.
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We then wander home through the woods while I tell them stories.
What next?
We originally thought we would be in Europe for about 16 months, but after just 5 months, it's time to head to Asia. We've gotten a sampling of a ridiculous number of countries (25), though at a pace I wouldn't recommend:
Iceland
France
Switzerland
Lichtenstein
Austria
Germany
Czech
Slovakia
Hungary
Poland
Ukraine
Romania
Bulgaria
Turkey
Greece
Macedonia
Albania
Kosovo
Montenegro
Croatia
Bosnia-Hercegovina
Slovenia
Italy
Monaco
Spain

Europe is full of cool stuff, but we are eager for a greater degree of cultural difference in our traveling. We are going to meander through a couple of our favorite places in France (Ardêche and Alsace), spend a few days in Paris, then on November 1st we head to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Venice, Italy

Venice was great . . . gelato, pastas, astronomical prices . . . but look how happy she is . . .

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Here's the Grand Canal seen from the Rialto bridge. For Lev Grossman fans, this is where the dragon of the Grand Canal lives.

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I think I also found the dock where I spent the night with a couple rats and cockroaches some 24 years ago.

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On the way back to France, we took a peek at Monaco.

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Blood and Honey

Macedonia
Albania
Kosovo
Montenegro
Croatia
Bosnia-Hercegovinia
Slovenia . . .
While hanging out with a new Bosniak friend in Mostar, he told me in strongly accented English, "In the Balkans it is blood and honey - right now is the honey, but every 50 years is the blood." Bombed out buildings and bullet-riddled walls bear witness to the 1990's conflict. He was thirteen years old when the conflict broke out and he spent the conflict holed up in his Mostar basement or dodging sniper fire. He says he doesn't bear ill will toward anybody, but neither does he think the cycle will ever end. Here's the famous Mostar bridge (rebuilt) and some other shots of town.

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Macedonia was very friendly and super cheap - $2.50 for a haircut, and $3.00 for a half chicken, fries, and veggies - definitely not Western Europe. The highlight was meeting Slavko, a bear of a man who is an opera singer at the Macedonia Opera and Ballet. We met at a random beach/campground on Lake Ohrid near the Albanian border. He invited us for Macedonian brandy, gave the kids homemade ice cream, and taught them how to catch the little fish that nibbled our legs in the lake. Nathaniel wanted to take the fish "home."

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Nathaniel and I popped into Albania for a couple hours on foot. Seems worth a full visit someday.
Then we went north into Kosovo which had some pretty surreal road conditions, but super friendly people. We pulled over for the night in a field in some random village. No English spoken (only Albanian and Serbian), but I gestured to some ladies asking if we could spend the night there and they seemed to think it was fine. Apparently, they went to tell the owner who came over later with his son. He looked at me fixedly and gave me a firm and communicative handshake; it felt incredibly welcoming - he wanted to make sure we knew it was fine to be on his land.
Turns out you can't go to Serbia direct from Kosovo because the Serbs contest that border (incidentally, car insurance companies don't appear to recognize Kosovo yet either - for them we were neither in Serbia, nor in Kosovo; we were just uninsured). The upshot is that we skipped Serbia and turned west toward Montenegro - a tiny country that really packs a visual punch with gorgeous mountains, beautiful forests, great beaches, and remarkable old towns. At Durmitor National Park we had to share the campground with some cows.

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We went from the mountains straight to Kotor Bay where I promptly jumped in for a swim.

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Next was Croatia and the town I had been waiting 23 years to see: Dubrovnik.

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The best thing about Croatia turned out to be Nathaniel suddenly teaching himself to swim. He went from wading to a splashy but torpedo-speed freestyle - remarkable.
After a short solo trip to Bosnia-Hercegovina by bus to see Mostar and Sarajevo, we made a beeline for Slovenia - an exceptionally beautiful country.

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Lots more pics of these spots here.

Meteora, Greece

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Having resolved to slow down a little bit, we spent three days exploring the monasteries of Meteora. But before getting there we stopped for an evening swim in the Aegean . . .

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We free-camped for the night and I was spat upon by an enraged Greek bar owner . . . something had gotten lost in translation. The monasteries were much more mellow.

There was something for everybody . . .

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We stayed at a campground and I paid 10 euros for an internet connection at an empty hotel. I completed my two days of work, we caught up on some homeschool, and then we turned north toward Macedonia.

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